One Pocket break shot

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Bob Farr

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Jul 23, 2015
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On a 7 ft and 8 ft table, where do you hit the rack for the break shot?
Thanks in advance for your help.
 
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u12armresl

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You're new here Jeff, (JK) but if you mention side raid breaks, you have to mention me. I seem to be the only advocate and person who plays them in tournaments and matching up.


Jeff sparks said:
Try the kick break... Kick across the table just past the side pocket with medium speed high CB no English... Works pretty good on smaller tables...
Click to expand...
 
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u12armresl

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The advantage of that break on a 7ft is that you wont ever scratch. Be sure to use 10 balls instead of 15 though.

Bob Farr said:
On a 7 ft and 8 ft table, where do you hit the rack for the break shot?
Thanks in advance for your help.
Click to expand...
 
P

poolisboring

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Dec 31, 2016
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toledo
u12armresl said:
You're new here Jeff, (JK) but if you mention side raid breaks, you have to mention me. I seem to be the only advocate and person who plays them in tournaments and matching up.
Click to expand...
a bunch of guys from akron were doing that break--im familiar with it and i like it, but didnt know if its legal or not.......
 
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poolisboring

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toledo
Bob Farr said:
On a 7 ft and 8 ft table, where do you hit the rack for the break shot?
Thanks in advance for your help.
Click to expand...
check out the break i invented for a bar table --breaking a couple inches from the side, hit the 2nd ball full with center ball and fairly soft speed--i came up with this because i wasnt satisfied with the usual op break on a bar table....... works wonders........
 
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lll

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vero beach fl
Renegade_56 said:
I believe that one ball OTHER THAN the cue ball must hit a rail.

Cueball only I believe is a foul.

Correct?
Click to expand...

no
from the rules
...
2.2 The opening break begins with ball in hand behind the head string. On the break, the cue ball may contact either a cushion or any ball in the rack first, but in either case, after contacting at least one ball, an object ball must be pocketed, or the cue ball or at least one object ball must contact a rail, otherwise it is a one foul penalty. As long as a legal stroke is employed from behind the head string on the break, the incoming player must play the balls where they lie – there are no re-racks for a pocket scratch or failure to contact a cushion or pocket a ball on the break.
 
B

Bob Farr

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Thanks for the good suggestions. I'm excited to try them out. Here in Salt Lake City, we only had a couple of rooms with 9 ft. tables and they have both closed. We do have some nice Bar Box rooms with real nice 7 ft tables.

"If you love One Pocket then it's better on a 7 footer than not at all."
 
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Bob Farr

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Jul 23, 2015
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Thanks guys. I've had a chance to try these out and I've had some success with practice.
My goal is to stop scratching half the time. My opponent is much better than me and I usually start the game off 2 or 3 balls down after I break.
The shots that are best for me are:
1. The shot cross table into the side of the rack. "The Kick Break." Pretty easy to leave the cue ball stuck to the pile. The tricky part is consistently getting a ball to the rail but, my opponent is safe at least.

2. Splitting the bottom 2 balls. Same english as standard break shot. Very effective on smaller table but, you have to hit this softer or your cue ball comes too far up table.

3. Cue ball close to the rail at the second diamond and hit the head ball full with follow just hard enough to drive the bottom corner ball to the rail and a couple more usually come out on my side. Cue ball stays frozen to the stack. If you hit it too hard your opponents bottom corner ball will come out far enough and leave a shot.

Shot 2 and 3 above I found on a one pocket instructional DVD called, "Pro Skill Drills" vol. 6 by Dominic "The Drill Instructor" Esposito.

Mr. poolisboring, I had trouble with the break shot where you hit the second ball full. I need to work on this one. I'm sure it's something I'm doing wrong. I might be hitting it too hard.

Thanks to everyone who took the time to offer up some help to me. It's been very helpful.
 
Last edited:
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u12armresl

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Jan 6, 2008
Messages
418
Bob,

Trust me, it is worth your time to invest practicing the side rail break.
When I was playing more (a year and a half ago) I was consistently putting 5 balls on my side of the table and either being frozen to the rack, or slightly off the rack with one ball on their side (that was always just barely unable to be shot)


Bob Farr said:
Thanks guys. I've had a chance to try these out and I've had some success with practice.
My goal is to stop scratching half the time. My opponent is much better than me and I usually start the game off 2 or 3 balls down after I break.
The shots that are best for me are:
1. The shot cross table into the side of the rack. "The Kick Break." Pretty easy to leave the cue ball stuck to the pile. The tricky part is consistently getting a ball to the rail but, my opponent is safe at least.

2. Splitting the bottom 2 balls. Same english as standard break shot. Very effective on smaller table but, you have to hit this softer or your cue ball comes too far up table.

3. Cue ball close to the rail at the second diamond and hit the head ball full with follow just hard enough to drive the bottom corner ball to the rail and a couple more usually come out on my side. Cue ball stays frozen to the stack. If you hit it too hard your opponents bottom corner ball will come out far enough and leave a shot.

Shot 2 and 3 above I found on a one pocket instructional DVD called, "Pro Skill Drills" vol. 6 by Dominic "The Drill Instructor" Esposito.

Mr. poolisboring, I had trouble with the break shot where you hit the second ball full. I need to work on this one. I'm sure it's something I'm doing wrong. I might be hitting it too hard.

Thanks to everyone who took the time to offer up some help to me. It's been very helpful.
Click to expand...
 
B

Bob Farr

New Member
Joined
Jul 23, 2015
Messages
18
u12armresl said:
Bob,

Trust me, it is worth your time to invest practicing the side rail break.
When I was playing more (a year and a half ago) I was consistently putting 5 balls on my side of the table and either being frozen to the rack, or slightly off the rack with one ball on their side (that was always just barely unable to be shot)
Click to expand...
Yup, that's the one I like the best. Thanks, I will keep working on it.
 
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poolisboring

Verified Member
Joined
Dec 31, 2016
Messages
756
From
toledo
Bob Farr said:
Thanks guys. I've had a chance to try these out and I've had some success with practice.
My goal is to stop scratching half the time. My opponent is much better than me and I usually start the game off 2 or 3 balls down after I break.
The shots that are best for me are:
1. The shot cross table into the side of the rack. "The Kick Break." Pretty easy to leave the cue ball stuck to the pile. The tricky part is consistently getting a ball to the rail but, my opponent is safe at least.

2. Splitting the bottom 2 balls. Same english as standard break shot. Very effective on smaller table but, you have to hit this softer or your cue ball comes too far up table.

3. Cue ball close to the rail at the second diamond and hit the head ball full with follow just hard enough to drive the bottom corner ball to the rail and a couple more usually come out on my side. Cue ball stays frozen to the stack. If you hit it too hard your opponents bottom corner ball will come out far enough and leave a shot.

Shot 2 and 3 above I found on a one pocket instructional DVD called, "Pro Skill Drills" vol. 6 by Dominic "The Drill Instructor" Esposito.

Mr. poolisboring, I had trouble with the break shot where you hit the second ball full. I need to work on this one. I'm sure it's something I'm doing wrong. I might be hitting it too hard.

Thanks to everyone who took the time to offer up some help to me. It's been very helpful.
Click to expand...
keep trying my break shot--it works but u need the proper speed.......
 
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