9' table in 18' room

GoldCrown

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I had this discussion with my good friend, adviser, consultant, teacher, lunch partner (what else?). That would be Mr. TRW aka Tom Wirth. The plan is to have the foot end a few more inches (1 or 1.5) from the wall and use a shorter cue (54") if the cue ball is frozen on the head rail. Curious how homeowners handled 18' or slightly shorter rooms. Did you center the table or offset slightly. Thanks, Frank
 

ChicagoFats

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NINE FOOT TABLE: 4.5' X 9'
(Playing area: 50" x 100")
A - 12' 6" x 16' 6"
B - 13' x 17'
C - 14' x 18'

This is the recommendation from brunswick. I pretty much used this when spacing out my table in new construction. I will say that people are using all sorts of extensions now. Do you have drywall or concrete as a barrier? If drywall you may want to open it up in the middle to accommodate your issue if possible.
 

GoldCrown

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NINE FOOT TABLE: 4.5' X 9'
(Playing area: 50" x 100")
A - 12' 6" x 16' 6"
B - 13' x 17'
C - 14' x 18'

This is the recommendation from brunswick. I pretty much used this when spacing out my table in new construction. I will say that people are using all sorts of extensions now. Do you have drywall or concrete as a barrier? If drywall you may want to open it up in the middle to accommodate your issue if possible.
18x14 seems to be an absolute minimum. Interesting...I would open up to the dry wall but cannot(new construction) and would gain about 1.25". The room is proposed as 18.4 x 15.... but I can see some loss of a 2.5" on the length. I might consider centering the table and using a nice custom 55" cue for cueball on rail shots. It's a pisser..a few inches short is a big deal.
 

Island Drive

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18x14 seems to be an absolute minimum. Interesting...I would open up to the dry wall but cannot(new construction) and would gain about 1.25". The room is proposed as 18.4 x 15.... but I can see some loss of a 2.5" on the length. I might consider centering the table and using a nice custom 55" cue for cueball on rail shots. It's a pisser..a few inches short is a big deal.
 

Island Drive

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Like you mentioned, have a wall cue. But like a garage that's too narrow and you can Just get your door open and Just get out might run its course. Keep in mind, it might be tough to even put a corner stool in there that's not in the way. If it was me, I'd get a Diamond 8' if they make em with that room size, long shots will still be long, there are also some 8' Gold Crowns out there, where???. Good luck!
 

Jimmy B

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Like you mentioned, have a wall cue. But like a garage that's too narrow and you can Just get your door open and Just get out might run its course. Keep in mind, it might be tough to even put a corner stool in there that's not in the way. If it was me, I'd get a Diamond 8' if they make em with that room size, long shots will still be long, there are also some 8' Gold Crowns out there, where???. Good luck!

Maybe get the 'oversized' 8 footer . Surface is 46x92..
 

lll

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room size from brunswick that i found
NINE FOOT TABLE: 4.5' X 9'
(Playing area: 50" x 100")
A - 12' 6" x 16' 6"
B - 13' x 17'
C - 14' x 18'
so 18 feet should be good
if concerned a shorter cue for the up table game sounds reasonable
another thought
practice like you are tony chohan.....:)
 

GoldCrown

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Say no to less than 9’... and come on guys.
1p friends don’t let friends buy less than 9’
 

crabbcatjohn

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Say no to less than 9’... and come on guys.
1p friends don’t let friends buy less than 9’
If you can, make yourself a easy template out of thin plywood or insulation board etc placed on horses or something similar and try it out with a cue. All you would need is one sheet to see if it will work for you. You could even make rails to bridge off of with a couple 2x6 blocks sitting on it...I would hate to go to all the expense and work, get a 9ft and not be happy with it being to big for the room.
 

Keith E.

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I had this discussion with my good friend, adviser, consultant, teacher, lunch partner (what else?). That would be Mr. TRW aka Tom Wirth. The plan is to have the foot end a few more inches (1 or 1.5) from the wall and use a shorter cue (54") if the cue ball is frozen on the head rail. Curious how homeowners handled 18' or slightly shorter rooms. Did you center the table or offset slightly. Thanks, Frank

IMHO, I would have the table placed so as to have the majority of it usable with the proper clearances. You can always move the balls to the other end if there are certain shots that you'd like to practice. Furniture sliders are very handy during the "test/discovery phase" to find out where you like your table. Don't forego getting the table just because the setup won't be perfect. Wishing you the best of luck.

Keith
 

lll

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based on this i think toms idea is best
shorter cue for the head of the table
just be sure you can break with your playing cue
 

cincy_kid

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It's one of the dilemma's I have had up to this point (having a room large enough to have a 9 footer). Personally, for me if I had a choice of having an 8 footer or nothing I would probably get nothing since I only play on 9 footers and only really care to, lol. Well unless I had room for a billiard or snooker table but both of those are larger so its a moot point.

I have been looking for minimum of 19' x 15' which would give me at least 5 foot around the edges of a 4.5 x 9 foot table which should be good in most cases. I am going to be setting mine up in my garage and I have 19' x 14.5' and a pole in one place that would make it only 14' up to the pole so I figure if I need a shorter stick for shots when placed near the pole, so be it.

Good luck and keep us posted maybe with some pics when you start working on it!
 

GoldCrown

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Good replies everyone and thanks. It's 9 or none. I'm going with center table or offset 1..1.25" We bought the house for this particular room. The room is suppose to be 18.4 x 14. Will end up about 18.1. That goes along with 1P... It's a squeeze. Anyway looking at a Diamond Professional or GC6(that I do not like appearance wise). Was at Blatt's Billiards in June.. They will build a GoldCrown...it has no #. Not 1,2 or 3 or 4. I'm edgy about having custom table from them aside from the price...but it's tempting. This table will be my 3rd table in a lifetime. I have a thing for 9footers.
 

GoldCrown

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It's one of the dilemma's I have had up to this point (having a room large enough to have a 9 footer). Personally, for me if I had a choice of having an 8 footer or nothing I would probably get nothing since I only play on 9 footers and only really care to, lol. Well unless I had room for a billiard or snooker table but both of those are larger so its a moot point.

I have been looking for minimum of 19' x 15' which would give me at least 5 foot around the edges of a 4.5 x 9 foot table which should be good in most cases. I am going to be setting mine up in my garage and I have 19' x 14.5' and a pole in one place that would make it only 14' up to the pole so I figure if I need a shorter stick for shots when placed near the pole, so be it.

Good luck and keep us posted maybe with some pics when you start working on it!
Currently have a GC4(different house) that had a pole next to it. The pole got moved. I could not stand it. The pole is currently at 14' and rarely gets in the way. 19x14.5 is great(good enough) space. Good minimum.
 
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ChicagoFats

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18x14 seems to be an absolute minimum. Interesting...I would open up to the dry wall but cannot(new construction) and would gain about 1.25". The room is proposed as 18.4 x 15.... but I can see some loss of a 2.5" on the length. I might consider centering the table and using a nice custom 55" cue for cueball on rail shots. It's a pisser..a few inches short is a big deal.
What I mean by opening up the drywall would give you 4 inches on each side.... think of how you would frame out a long window horizontally. Structurally it is still the same. it would basically just be a shelf on each side of the table and give you 8 more inches. You could finish it with oak or whatever trim you are using to match. If you mean those walls are insulated, then I see you have a problem.
 

Island Drive

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I would not like skewing the table, keep in mind when you set it, you have No room for error with your outside dimensions.

Like this gal that ran a diesel repair shop said to me long ago. ''Tight and right''.
 

GoldCrown

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What I mean by opening up the drywall would give you 4 inches on each side.... think of how you would frame out a long window horizontally. Structurally it is still the same. it would basically just be a shelf on each side of the table and give you 8 more inches. You could finish it with oak or whatever trim you are using to match. If you mean those walls are insulated, then I see you have a problem.
I totally understand what you are saying and like the idea... but not sure if it can be accommodated. One wall is cinderblock with 3/4” stud. I’m assuming the dry wall is 1/2”. Also a window on that wall. Will show pictures. Opposing wall is dry wall separating the room from hallway. Cannot alter that. My gut is use a custom 55”cue for that one shot. Outside wall does not have much room gain. This is how the studded wall looks and has a double window.
 

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Island Drive

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I totally understand what you are saying and like the idea... but not sure if it can be accommodated. One wall is cinderblock with 3/4” stud. I’m assuming the dry wall is 1/2”. Also a window on that wall. Will show pictures. Opposing wall is dry wall separating the room from hallway. Cannot alter that. My gut is use a custom 55”cue for that one shot. Outside wall does not have much room gain. This is how the studded wall looks and has a double window.
Short cue will KIS, pretty sure pro snooker players use cues in that 54-55'' length.
 
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