Are You In Stroke ?

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Dennis "Whitey" Young

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I'd stop into Brigham's Pool Hall, Long Beach, ca. 1968, on the way home from school and clean the tables and then get to play for free for awhile before on to home. Curly Brigham took a liking to me and mentored me somewhat!

So one day he sit up an object ball, one ball width off the 3rd diamond side rail, and put the cue ball on the spot, and said; "now you will know you are in stroke if you can bank that ball across side" !

The table was extremely fast which makes the shot very challenging and spectacular, for the balls travel across side together and at about mid cross side the cue ball clears back out of the way and lets the object ball go into the cross side pocket!

It is done by stroking into the object ball at a point of contact that you are for sure you are going to get a double hit, but by using extreme low with a little reverse the cue ball then draws back out of the way of the object ball's path!

Use a medium force stroke on regular speed cushions that has enough force to draw the cue ball across to the far side cushion. Use a harder stroke on faster cushions.

Enjoy! Whitey
 
androd

androd

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Dennis "Whitey" Young said:
I'd stop into Brigham's Pool Hall, Long Beach, ca. 1968, on the way home from school and clean the tables and then get to play for free for awhile before on to home. Curly Brigham took a liking to me and mentored me somewhat!

So one day he sit up an object ball, one ball width off the 3rd diamond side rail, and put the cue ball on the spot, and said; "now you will know you are in stroke if you can bank that ball across side" !

The table was extremely fast which makes the shot very challenging and spectacular, for the balls travel across side together and at about mid cross side the cue ball clears back out of the way and lets the object ball go into the cross side pocket!

It is done by stroking into the object ball at a point of contact that you are for sure you are going to get a double hit, but by using extreme low with a little reverse the cue ball then draws back out of the way of the object ball's path!

Use a medium force stroke on regular speed cushions that has enough force to draw the cue ball across to the far side cushion. Use a harder stroke on faster cushions.

Enjoy! Whitey
Click to expand...

Another method, Bridge very short, bridge hand very close to CB, 3 or 9 O'clock english, Depending on which side of the table, no draw, almost full hit on OB.
More than one way to skin a cat. :D
Give it a few tries
Enjoy !
 
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poolisboring

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toledo
androd said:
Another method, Bridge very short, bridge hand very close to CB, 3 or 9 O'clock english, Depending on which side of the table, no draw, almost full hit on OB.
More than one way to skin a cat. :D
Give it a few tries
Enjoy !
Click to expand...
this would be my method as well..... at least on this shot....i usually never use english on banks unless absolutely necessary......
 
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Dennis "Whitey" Young

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androd said:
Another method, Bridge very short, bridge hand very close to CB, 3 or 9 O'clock english, Depending on which side of the table, no draw, almost full hit on OB.
More than one way to skin a cat. :D
Give it a few tries
Enjoy !
Click to expand...

That is an excellent shot, and does require a stroke, and knowledge! What's good about this method is that the ball can be banked at even less than a ball width from cushion. Thanks for offering it up!
Whitey
 
NH Steve

NH Steve

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Also depends on the table conditions and cushions a bit, because it has to be the kind of conditions that lend to shortening up the bank.

Interesting the way you are playing it 'Whitey' because one little gem that Eddie Taylor advised me on when I interviewed him for our HOF, was on this type of bank that is usually a kiss, he said "NO DRAW -- either just inside english or high inside english"

Another one is to put the object ball just a bout an 1/8" off the side rail on the second diamond up from the bottom rail, and take ball in hand in the kitchen from the opposite side of the table and bank it cross corner. The cue ball follows down toward the bottom corner, and when it is hit right, the object ball somehow ducks the kiss and goes cross corner. It looks impossible, and probably is on tables with new cloth or that don't shorten up well.

The club I play at unfortunately (someone thought it was a good idea, lol) has Kleber (sp?) cushions, and they are specially designed NOT to shorten up, so this kind of shot does not go nearly as well -- I have to move the object ball up to like the 2.5 diamond. I know part of what Greg Sullivan intentionally designed into the Diamond tables is having a great range of banking either long or short, depending on speed and english. Kleber takes away most of that :mad::mad:
 
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NH Steve

NH Steve

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And this is the cross side. For either one of them, you can adjust your angles to make it tougher or easier depending on how you are hitting them, and to see how far you can go.
 

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Dennis "Whitey" Young

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NH Steve said:
Also depends on the table conditions and cushions a bit, because it has to be the kind of conditions that lend to shortening up the bank.

Interesting the way you are playing it 'Whitey' because one little gem that Eddie Taylor advised me on when I interviewed him for our HOF, was on this type of bank that is usually a kiss, he said "NO DRAW -- either just inside english or high inside english"

Another one is to put the object ball just a bout an 1/8" off the side rail on the second diamond up from the bottom rail, and take ball in hand in the kitchen from the opposite side of the table and bank it cross corner. The cue ball follows down toward the bottom corner, and when it is hit right, the object ball somehow ducks the kiss and goes cross corner. It looks impossible, and probably is on tables with new cloth or that don't shorten up well.

The club I play at unfortunately (someone thought it was a good idea, lol) has Kleber (sp?) cushions, and they are specially designed NOT to shorten up, so this kind of shot does not go nearly as well -- I have to move the object ball up to like the 2.5 diamond. I know part of what Greg Sullivan intentionally designed into the Diamond tables is having a great range of banking either long or short, depending on speed and english. Kleber takes away most of that :mad::mad:
Click to expand...

Thanks for the post, they are great shots, I'll enjoy working on them! Eddie is right for a lot of times say when using draw reverse to shorten up the shot, the cue ball's first reaction is to roll sidewise and then gets the kiss. When Curly set up the shot for me, he did not tell me how to make it. As you stated a fast table makes some shots near impossible, and in this shot it is nearly impossible with draw for the table was lightening fast, so it required one hell of a stroke to get the cue ball out of the way, and being self taught, that is the way I did it! And every once in awhile I would do it to test my stroke. The shot was not possible by going across the face for the rails were to fast to put enough throw on the ball. Now since my rails have slowed the shot is much easier, and way less spectacular, for the cue ball draws clear much easier! On your second shot example, I do a similar shot in set up. On 5 x 10 I have the ob ball set frozen at 1/2 diamond with cue ball frozen just in front of pocket, and bank the ob ball cross side! A fun shot! On 4-1/2 x 9 you might want to go a little ahead of the 1/2 diamond to give you more room. I'll have to show you my squeeze play bank shot once I figure out how to do your wonderful illustrations. The shot looks impossible but it is there! thanks, Whitey
 
NH Steve

NH Steve

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Dennis "Whitey" Young said:
Thanks for the post, they are great shots, I'll enjoy working on them! Eddie is right for a lot of times say when using draw reverse to shorten up the shot, the cue ball's first reaction is to roll sidewise and then gets the kiss. When Curly set up the shot for me, he did not tell me how to make it. As you stated a fast table makes some shots near impossible, and in this shot it is nearly impossible with draw for the table was lightening fast, so it required one hell of a stroke to get the cue ball out of the way, and being self taught, that is the way I did it! And every once in awhile I would do it to test my stroke. The shot was not possible by going across the face for the rails were to fast to put enough throw on the ball. Now since my rails have slowed the shot is much easier, and way less spectacular, for the cue ball draws clear much easier! On your second shot example, I do a similar shot in set up. On 5 x 10 I have the ob ball set frozen at 1/2 diamond with cue ball frozen just in front of pocket, and bank the ob ball cross side! A fun shot! On 4-1/2 x 9 you might want to go a little ahead of the 1/2 diamond to give you more room. I'll have to show you my squeeze play bank shot once I figure out how to do your wonderful illustrations. The shot looks impossible but it is there! thanks, Whitey
Click to expand...
Take a look in the "How to" post on the top of the main forum:
http://www.onepocket.org/forum/showthread.php?t=6447

There you will find a link to the diagramming program, and also to the screen capture/drawing program "Greenshot". Those are the tools I used.
 
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Dennis "Whitey" Young

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stroke bank

stroke bank

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1sWSDVcLC9oEVjOQCTCqccXJ7UuSWcFpD/view?usp=drivesdk

Here is the shot to see if you are in stroke! To refresh how it goes; you place the cb froze and straight off the 3rd diamond and then place the object frozen to cb straight off the 3rd diamond, remove the cb and place it on the spot. Shoot the cb into the object ball, drawing the cb back out of the way of the cross side bank.

How I make it; I am directly at the ob then adjust aim to right of that straight on hit about an 1/8". Stroke with extreme low with a 1/2 tip to 1tip right english using a moderate speed stroke.

The video is so fast, you will need to double click it quickly, so hopefully you can stop it right when the cb is in front of the ob before it draws back out of the way! I wish I had also done it in slow motion! Note: if you double click on the start arrow it enlarges the video.

Check other posts for other methods of making this shot!
Well enjoy trying and doing the shot! Let us know how it goes! Whitey
 
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Dennis "Whitey" Young

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From
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Slow motion stroke bank!

Slow motion stroke bank!

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1QmAAabqvp1h5Ax7n4nxjKy2XNbz49r5I/view?usp=drivesdk

I felt that the last video was a blink and you would miss the shot, so I did one in slow motion. Upon viewing the video it became glaring that I mistakenly said to use LH english, instead of RH english, oops! Double click on video arrow to make the video larger.

Androd & also NH Steve pointed out on this shot the use of center ball is acknowledge the best way to make these types of banks. And yes being self taught I did not know of this method, so I then tried this shot by Androd method of a 3 o'clock stroke and it is much easier, and I even made it at half a ball width from rail. But my method holds merit if you need that type of positioning.

Who would of thought 50 yrs. after I did this shot that I would be threading it! I want to thank OnePocket.org founder and members for creating this great site and as a goal to pass on info & knowledge for the advancement of the game.

PM me if your having difficulty making this shot, but I would suggest first hitting it straight on and having 15 go past cross side pocket, and then start zeroing in on getting it closer. Also using a M/hard tip to hard tip will make the cue ball respond quicker drawing back out of the way. thanks, Whitey
 
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Dennis "Whitey" Young

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Klamath Falls, Or.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/QL7qyF5j6DUsPEeo9


This is the same shot except the 13 is just a half ball width off the 3rd diamond, and I am using Androd's stroke. Hitting the 13 straight on with 3 -o'clock. The sound of my voice is off but I'am saying this is Androd's method of banking this shot. His method allows the 13 to be stroked in at only a 1/2 ball off the rail, instead of my method which can not be made that close to the rail.

Click on the video and it will give you a little better perspective! Thanks, Androd!

I think I need to be corrected for I am hitting it at nearly 5-o'clock whereas Androd suggests 3 o'clock, which is far right hand english center ball, which I have made this shot easily @ a 1/2 ball off 3rd. diamond, using his method! I think the reason I made it this time is because I used so much right hand english. If I would of shot it Androd's 3'oclock center ball then the cue ball would of just sat right there upon contact!
enjoy, Whitey
 
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